Kolkata Travel Guide
The intellectual capital of India, Kolkata is a fascinating amalgam of life’s the cradle of literary renaissance and Indian nationalism. Kolkata is also the largest metropolis in India. It is a city known for its crowded slums, traffic jams, floods and frequent power cuts as much as for its excellence in art, literature and culture.
Kolkata, on the Hooghly, retains the aura of days long gone, weaving the past and the present, the intense and the fun loving into a charming fabric. The city is vital, volatile, over-populated, the largest metropolis in the country. It is a city if strange paradoxes and one that leaves an indelible impression on the visitor. Imperial edifices, teeming bazaars, gardens and golf courses, shanty towns, museums and elegant hotels, the muddy Hoogly river winding through the city, the mournful boom of boats on the river, the cantilever Howrah Bridge spilling over with traffic- these are some of the images that form the exciting collage that is Kolkata.
The Ganges is still the inspiration, as it was to Job Charnock, the east India company agent who reached the shores in August 1690 and found the city. He established a small trading post in the estuary of the river Hoogly. It grew to become the capital of the British Empire in India.
Kolkata is the gateway to eastern India. A city with a rich heritage, bustling streets and bewildering variety of facets. It is cited as the Mecca of the east. From October to March, Kolkata wears a radiant look. Sunshine, mild winter, lights, colours, fairs, festivals, galas and excursions, mood is infectious and the spirit sweeping.
Kolkata to millions is the proud cultural and intellectual capital of India with an outstanding contribution to the arts, science, medicine and social reform in its past, and a rich contemporary culture life. Home to four noble laureates- Ronald Ross, Rabindranath Tagore, Mother Teresa and Amartya Sen, this is the nerve centre of intellect and human values, where many modern movements began in art, cinema and theatre, science and industry. India’s quest for freedom too began here.
Yet for its 13 million inhabitants Kolkata is truly an Indian city, as the annual Durga Puja, the most important Hindu festival in West Bengal, vividly demonstrates. Kolkata is unique in peculiar way, as the contrasting elements maintain their distinct individuality. Ever since it’s founding, Kolkata has always been a land of religious superstition and social awakening. The city has witnessed numerous social and political revolutions. For all its literary, religious and cultural excellence, Kolkata is also an important industrial city, where the hand-drawn rickshaw of yesteryears and the ultra-modern underground metro train still co-exist.
Places of attraction
Maidan Ventures: Come step into the corridors of Kolkata’s charm. A walk along Chowringhee Road sets the pace as you set to unravel the rare beauty of this city. Across the road sweeps a huge lush green open parkland called the Maidan. It is bordered on the side by the river and on the other by an elegant boulevard the Chowringhee. Many of Kolkata’s main landmarks are located around it.
Fort William : After the defeat in 1756 the British built a new massive fort on the site of the village of Gobindapur. Designed to be impregnable it was roughly octagonal about 500 mts. in diameter large enough to house all the Europeans in the city in case of an attack. Built by the British in 1773 the fort was named after King William III. Fort William is now the headquarters of the Indian army’s Eastern command. Water from the river Hoogly was channeled to fill the wide moat and the jungle around it was cleared to give a clear field of fire which later became the maidan. Surrounded by a deep 15 mts. wide moats the Fort William is an irregular octagon enclosing an area of 5.2 sq. kms. The fort is still in use today and visitors are only allowed inside with special permission. Even the trenches and deep fortifications surrounding the fort’s massive walls seem to be out of bounds.
Chowringhee ( Jawaharlal Nehru Rd ): This is the city’s main thoroughfare with shops hotels, offices and residential buildings. You can still see some of the old imposing structures with pillared verandahs though modern high-rise buildings have transformed the skyline of this ancient pilgrim route to Kalighat. Crowded with cinemas, restaurants office blocks and shopping centres, Chowringhee is the best-known road in Kolkata. It was once part of an old pilgrim route to Kalighat filled with garden houses and residences of leading Englishmen.
Victoria Memorial: Dominating the view from the Maidan is the Victoria Memorial India’s finest tribute to the memory of the Raj. Built of white marble in a curious blend of Italian Renaissance-cum-Saracenic style the memorial was designed in Italian Renaissance-Munhall style by Sir William Emerson. Comparable only to the Taj Mahal in its pristine beauty the memorial was opened by the Prince of Wales in 1921.Set amidst vast lawns and greenery the Victoria Memorial contains a wonderful collection of Raj memorabilia and Queen Victoria’s personal belongings. Notable among the collections are a musical grandfather clock Queen Victoria’s piano and desk books portraits and many other things. The building itself is surmounted by a huge crowning dome on top of which is the 5 mts. tall bronze statue of Victory designed to revolve on its base. The extensive gardens surround the building. A seated bronze Queen Victoria dominates the approach while a marble statue stands in the main hall where visitors sometimes leave flowers at her feet. Many busts of assorted British nobility can also be found here. The building is illuminated in the evening; the musical fountain is a special draw. Two regular sound and light shows are shown in the evening. Timing: 10.00 am to 5.00pm.Closed on Mondays.
Race Course: The adjoining Race Course was built in 1819 and is one of the best in the east. It is the scene of much gaiety especially during the winter seasons.
Birla Planetarium: Adjacent to the Maidan is the Birla Planetarium the largest Planetarium in Southeast Asia. Situated close to the crossing of Theatre Road near the Government of India tourist office this planetarium is also one of the technically most advanced in the world. The single-storied circular structure of the buildings closely resembles the Buddhist stupa at Sanchi. Daily shows are held in English Hindi and Bengali as the Planetariums gigantic projector recreates the night sky. Stars planets and heavenly bodies come into view as the background lecture explains and guides the astronomical tour. The planetarium also has an astronomical library and art gallery.
Shahid Minar: Originally built in honour of Sir David Ochterlony who led his army to victory in the Nepalese War (1812-1814) this 48.15 metre monument on the maidan was named Shahid Minar in 1969.The column is an interesting combination of different architectural styles-a Grecian pillar on an Egyptian plinth crowned by a Turkish cupola. An excellent view of the Maidan and Kolkata city can be had from the top of the monument. Permission to ascend the monument may be got from the Police Headquarters, Lal Bazar. The monument got its present name after independence in honour of the martyred freedom fighters. Shahid Minar today is an important landmark in Kolkata and popular venue for open-air meetings and processions.
Raj Bhavan: At the northern end of the Maidan towards the river Hoogly is the Old British Government house now called Raj Bhavan. Built in 1803 and modelled on Lord Curzon’s home Keddleston Hall Derbyshire, England, this is now the official residence of the Governor of Bengal. This beautiful building built in 1803 is considered to be the best example of Georgian architecture in the nation. The interiors of this 137 room palace are lavishly decorated with antiques and art pieces collected by the viceroys who resided here. Among the objects of interest here are the busts of Caesar a pair of Egyptian sphinx sculptures the throne of Tipu Sultan and a wrought iron lift which is now operated by power. There are many rare works of art and other interesting items. Entry is restricted.
Town Hall: A walk across is the Town Hall. It was built in 1813 in Doric style of architecture. It is now the city Magistrate’s Office. The old Town Hall has been converted into a museum.
Kolkata High Court: Between the Town Hall and the Strand is the Kolkata High Court the venue of many a legendary legal battle. Completed in 1872 the Gothic architectural style is an impressive replica of the Town Hall of Pyres in Belgium .The building has a small tank of gold fish with a fountain at its centre, marvelous columns, capitals and a 60 mts. tall tower.
Howrah Bridge (Rabindra Setu): Kolkata’s most famous landmark the Howrah Bridge on the Hoogly is a modern engineering marvel. This unique cantilevered bridge made up of more than 2590 metric tonnes of high tensile steel connects Kolkata’s main railway station on the Howrah side of the river with Kolkata proper. Opened in 1943 the 71 feet wide of bridge can accommodate eight lanes of traffic two footpaths and a confusing medley of vendors handcrafts and herds of cattle.
Vidyasagar Setu ( Second Hoogly Bridge ): The longest cable-stayed bridge in Asia is the Vidyasagar Setu. It was opened to traffic in 1992. It connects the twin cities of Kolkata and Howrah and is capable of handling around 85,000 vehicles everyday on its lanes. The bridge also has an air-conditioned plaza.
Dalhousie Square : It was the administrative centre for British India. On one side is the General Post Office a majestic specimen of Edwardian architecture. It is built on the site of the original Fort William. On the other side stand Writer’s Building a massive Gothic structure with lion pillars and still the house of political power.
When Kolkata was the administrative centre for British India BBD ( Binoy Badal Dinesh) Bagh was the centre of power. On the north side stands the huge Writer’s Building dating from 1880.The East India Company’s writers have now been replaced by modern-day West Bengal government employees.
Until it was abandoned in 1757 the original Fort William stood on the site of the present day post office. For stamp enthusiasts there is a small philatelic museum next door to the main post office on BBD Bagh.
On Strand Road North is the dilapidated Silver Mint opposite the Master’s House built at the same time. The Writer’s Building designed by Thomas Lyon as the trading HQ of the East India Company was refaced in 1880. It is now the state Government Secretariat. Mission Row is Kolkata’s oldest street and contains the Old Mission Church built by the Swedish missionary Johann Kiernander.
Jorasanko Tagore House: This rambling red brick structure on Chitpur Road was the ancestral home of the poet-philosopher Rabindranath Tagore. The Rabindra Bharati University and the Rabindra Bharati University and the Rabindra Bharati Museum are also located here. The state government has now taken over the building and the Rabindra Bharati Society conducts various cultural activities here. The Rabindra Bharati University is devoted to dance, drama, art and music-fields in which Tagore has made an indelible mark. The Rabindra Bharati Museum nearby was initially the residence of Tagore and it deals with the life and time of the great poet. The building with its turrets and pediments closely resembles a Scottish manor.
Marble Palace : The marble palace situated off Chittaranjan Avenue on Muktaram Babu Street has a rare collection of antiques of artistic and historic value. About 5 kms northeast of Dalhousie Square is the magical palace, a fine example of wealthy Bengali’s home in the 18th and 19th centuries. Built by Raja Rajendra Mullick in 1855 the interior of the palace is truly astounding as almost 90 varieties of marble are used on floors, wall panels, tabletops and statues. The garden surrounding the palace is filled with fountains busts and statues of Roman gods and goddesses.
National Library: The building housing the National Library was originally the Belvedere House the residence of British viceroys when they visited Kolkata. The National Library is today the largest and most important in India in terms of books and quality of literature. It contains a mammoth collection of more than 8 million books 2000 manuscripts 700 periodicals and all published material in India. Formerly the official residence of the British Lieutenant Governor in Bengal this stately mansion has a splendid gateway of three arches crowned by the sculpture of a Royal Bengal Tiger. The Viceroy’s Ballroom is now the main reading room and the 100 feet long centre table is a special attraction here. The National library is today the largest and most important in India in terms of books and quality of literatures.
Timings: Weekdays: 9.00 am to 8.00 pm Saturday Sundays and Public Holidays:10.00 am to 6.00pm.
Metcalfe Hall: Located at the junction of Strand Road and Hare Street this building once housed the Imperial Library which has now been shifted to Belvedere in Alipore. Designed after the Portico of the Temple of Winds at Athens the building with its ornamental basement and tall columns closely resembles a Greek temple. Metcalf Hall was erected to commemorate Lord Metcalf and his efforts towards emancipation of the press.
Mother Teresa House: Once Kolkata’s living legend Mother Teresa is today after her passing away in 1997 an international figure. The first of Mother Teresa’s home is Nirmal Hriday “the place of pure heart”. Begun in 1952 this long low structures near the Kalighat temple is a home for dying destitute. It is open to anyone who needs help and most significantly the building has no door.
At Titagarh is the Home for Lepers where a large number of leprosy patients are this attended on by nuns trained specially for this kind of work. The Missionaries of Charity is a new order formed in 1950 by Mother Teresa. Their vow ‘to give whole hearted and free service to the poorest of the poor’ was put into action with the setting up of several homes.
Science City : Science city is located on Kolkata’s eastern metropolitan by pass. This 21 century marvel of science communication and environment is the first and only institution of its kind in India. Spend a day here and you won’t regret it. Pick your special thrill at this exposition park. A space theatre, space flight simulator recreated Jurassic forest, aviary, butterfly corner and much more! It is the pride of the people of Kolkata that has opened the gateway to the next century. It is open to the public everyday from 9 am to 9 pm even on public holidays.
Nicco Park : Nicco is situated at Salt Lake. This amusement park is the Disneyland of West Bengal with a variety of unusual games and rides. The river cave ride is the latest addition and is the only one of its kind in this part of the world. The park is open to the public from 10am to 8 pm everyday during the winter and 11 am to 9 pm everyday during the rest of the year.
Millennium Park : Superbly situated on the banks of the Hoogly River (on Strand Road South opposite the Shipping Corporation of India building) and with a terrific view of the Howrah Bridge this park is a glorious place to kick back and observe life on the river. It’s especially beautiful at sunset. It has children’s playground and kiosk
Metro Railway: A jewel in the crown of Kolkata is Metro Railway. India’s first underground tube railway connecting the southern end of the city Tollygunge to northern end at Dum it covers a distance of 16 kms divided into 17 stations in only 33 minutes. With its clean surroundings prompt and consistent service it offers a comfortable journey to hassled and harassed office goers.
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